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Videos! III

November 20th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

Let's go back 50 years to the International Geophysical year. How have previous Antarctic expeditions impacted today's research? What will the next 50 years look like?

ANDRILL media specialist Megan Berg, age 20, has created the third of six videos about Antactica and ANDRILL. You can watch them in high quality by downloading them from the ANDRILL site, or at YouTube quality embedded below.

This is video #3, “Historical Journey”, parts I and II.



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Granite Harbor

November 19th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

I got back from the field trip yesterday. It was a wonderful week at a remote camp in Granite Harbor, Antarctica. I got dropped off after a one hour helicopter flight. The camp consisted of Scott Tents for sleeping (unheated), and two larger tents for science and dining that could just barely hold the 11 of us.

Each day we woke up and went out into the field to do the seismic survey. The survey consisted of drilling 411 holes in 2.2m sea ice, and then dropping an air gun through the hole and firing it, while a 1.5km long streamer of geophones trailing behind us recorded the returns. It was fairly simple hard physical labor: shoveling snow, placing the air gun in the hole, and winding up cables as the winch pulled the air gun out. We would get back in the evenings, eat dinner, and play cards and backgammon in the heated dining tent. We got bored one evening and made a Scrabble(TM)(R) game out of cardboard. It took a while to cut out 100 letter tiles. One night I presented An Inconvenient Truth to the rest of the camp.

At night we would sleep in unheated tents and the temperature would drop to around 0F. I was warm wearing a t-shirt, long underwear, sweater, fleece jacket, fleece sleeping bag liner, and then a high quality sleeping bag. And a hat (pulled over my eyes for some darkness) and lightweight gloves.

The weather was excellent… bright sun and blue skies and warm enough (almost 30F one day!) that I stripped to a t-shirt while shoveling. I have a sun-glass tan that I haven't had since I was very young and spent a summer skiing on a glacier.

There were dozens of seals lying all over the place, and an Adelie penguin wandered over to inspect us one day. On a field trip we came across an Emperor penguin. I spent about 3 hours standing just a few feet from it. We walked away and it dropped to its belly and followed us.

I took a bunch of photos and have uploaded them all here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mankoff/Gra … Antarctica

I'm back in the 'big city' of McMurdo now. It is nice to be back as there are showers here and larger quantities of food and electricity and email and all that stuff. And it is actually quieter because in the field we were constantly near multiple generators and engines and drills. Still, I would love to return to the field for some amount of time, and maybe someday in a way that is less power hungry and therefore quieter.

The most educational aspect of the trip was to actually see how much waste 11 people create and how much energy 11 people consume. In an apartment in New York City I am aware of the amount of trash I generate, but not my bodily wastes, and not my power consumption. We were lucky and the environmental survey said that there were strong currents in the area, so our bodily waste went into a hole in the sea ice rather than buckets and will be ocean-bound once the ice melts. But we still had to drill a couple of those holes. And the helicopters had to return a few times delivering fuel drums so we could power the vehicles and cook and heat.

This past week has motivated me to be even more energy conscious in the future.

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Offline

November 11th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

I'm going out in the field to help with a seismic survey. I'll be offline until I get back, which should be in a week or two. I just took a nice long shower, savoring the warm water. It'll be a while until I get to do that again…

From Antarctica

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Discovery Hut

November 10th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

Last week I went into Discovery Hut. Mostly it is boxes of biscuits and dog food, and old supplies: skis, stoves, clothes. There is also a closet of meat.

It is amazing being in a place so immutable, in an environment that feels so destructive.





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Update (Nov 9th)

November 8th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

It has been a while since my last update, so, here is what is new and happening down here.

ANDRILL has just crossed the 500m depth which is cause for celebration. Apparently tradition has us march around base in our underwear. Photos of that might be posted once the parade happens.

I’ll be leaving sometime soon for a week or two in the field. “Mini ANDRILL” is a seismic survey looking for future drilling sites. I’ll be camping on the sea ice, drilling holes, and setting off “explosions” of air bubbles under the ice which bounces sound off the layers of rocks under the sea. The return echo is recorded and timestamped to generate an image of the inside of the Earth. I don’t know when I will actually join that trip because the mountaineer is stuck in Christchurch.

A lot of people are stuck in Christchurch. We’ve had unpredictable and mean weather here for the past few days. It is nice for a few hours each day but windy and white the rest of the time. We’ve been in and out of Condition Two and even went to Condition One for a few hours one night. Therefore there have been no flights down for almost two weeks which sounds like it might be approaching a summer record. Unfortunately, no flights means no fresh veggies, no mail nor packages, and no mountaineer. The weather has also caused all the day trips to the drill site and the Dry Valleys to be postponed. Such is life in Antarctica. We were told, repeatedly before coming down, that we would need to hurry up and wait, and be very flexible with our schedules.

I’m switching discipline teams today or tomorrow. I’ve been working with the diatomists for the past month and will spend the rest of my time (when I’m not with Mini ANDRILL) on the curatorial team. That means I’ll be splitting and scanning the core.

The core has been very interesting and beautiful recently. We went through a layer with a lot of shells, and here is a picture of a drop stone. When we see a rock like this among very find grained sediments, and it has deformed them slightly, the story the geologists tell is this:

The fine grained sediments are deposited in a deep sea low energy environment. How does a big rock land there? Glaciers far away on land grind down a mountain, picking up debris as they move. They get to the ocean and calve into icebergs. The icebergs float away and melt, and as they melt they drop their debris to the sea floor below.

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Videos! I

November 3rd, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

The ANDRILL media specialist Megan Berg, age 20, has created the first of six videos about Antactica and ANDRILL. You can watch them in high quality by downloading them from the ANDRILL site, or at YouTube quality embedded below.

This is video #1, “Antarctica Today”, parts I and II.



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NBC

November 3rd, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

Air schedule is:

Today Show Day 1: Nov 5, 5am – 9:15am Eastern
Today Show Day 2: Nov 6, 5am – 9:15am Eastern
NBC Nightly News: Nov 6, 6:15pm – 7:00pm Eastern

I won't be in any of the segments, but Antarctica, human induced climate change, and ANDRILL will be.

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Plants

October 31st, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

There isn't much large green floral life down here… There is a lot of life in general, just like everywhere else on this planet, but a lot of it is hard to see. It is under the sea ice in 28 F water, or microscopic hidden among the rocks and the snow.

But there is a greenhouse both here and at the South Pole, which provides a wonderful respite from the white and gray and black. There are two hammocks and it is a nice place to take a nap. It is also the most humid place on base by far.

From Antarctica

To make up for the lack of green elsewhere on base, I ordered a Flip Flap to keep me company. It would run 24/7 due to all the sunlight. But apparently the Kiwi Hercules is not operational, which means we are running about a 20 ton/day deficit. Or at least ton/landing, which is a function of weather. I think the order of shipment priorities is something along the lines of: science equipment, operational equipment, fresh fruit and veggies, and then personal packages. I have a feeling it'll arrive after I depart.

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Q & A I

October 30th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

My friend Mame asked me a bunch of questions about life down here and I figure I’ll reply to them here as they are good questions and you all might be interested in the Q&A.

Do we fantasize about surviving down here with an end-of-the-world scenario (superbug, aliens, etc.)?

Surprisingly it does not feel isolated enough that we have these fantasies. In one sense of course we are very isolated. But there is a new plane of arrivals (30 to 90 per flight) every day that the weather allows it, and sometimes two per day. The amount of people on base is holding roughly steady at around 1,000 because others are leaving northward or to the South Pole.

However, we do have a lot of issues with bugs here. For some reason (everyone living in close quarters indoors? Isolation + new arrivals?) we are very susceptible to bugs down here. I avoided the flu but it got about half the base shortly after my arrival. There are handwashing signs EVERYWHERE, special sinks right outside the dining hall, and hand sanitizer pumps all over the place. Joanna wrote a post about hand washing.

What are the support personnel like?

There are 9 to 10 support people per scientist. There are about 10 science projects on base. Most of those are teams of two to five scientists. ANDRILL is an 800 pound gorilla on base as there are around 60 to 70 of us. So, 10 science projects, around 100 scientists total, and around 1100 people on base. “Support personnel” include H&R, IT, cargo logistics, flight operations, recreational activity, search and rescue (SAR), dining services, mechanics, plumbers, electricians, and a million other positions. Many people play two or three roles, plus bartend or DJ or are the base hair cutter and/or masseuse too.

The support personnel cover a broad spectrum from non-publishing scientist to migratory world-wandering general worker. Examples of the former include the sea ice safety group who meticulously studies the sea ice, how it moves and cracks, salinity, depth, temperature, etc. but rather than publishing the results they decide if it is safe to drive or walk or land a plane. Or last week we had a very neat engineering (not science) talk about the road one group is building to the South Pole and the mechanics and logistics of transport.

There is a saying down here that there are more janitors with PhDs than anywhere else on the planet. I’m in a strange role myself down here as I’m not actually here as a scientist but as an educator/teacher. But I’m not really a teacher. But my job as a teacher is to be embedded with a science team. I’ve taken to just saying, “I’m a climate modeler”. I’m also very much in a world-wandering nomadic mode much like some support people, but I have a serious career while I wander.

Whatever… long complex answer to a simple question: They are not any different than the science groups and I’ve made some friends in both groups.

Who does the laundry

I do. If you saw my packing list you notice I only brought a weeks worth of socks and underwear. The dorms have laundry and it is pretty easy to throw it in the washer before or after dinner. I don’t use the drier because there is so little humidity here. Most people have permanently cracked hands and use lots of cream. I’m doing OK, perhaps because of my long time high up in the Colorado plateau. But I hang dripping wet laundry at night and in the morning it is dry.

Where do you get water?

Suck it out of McMurdo sound. Desalinate.

What’s the major power source?

Diesel generators. Seven million gallons/year usage I think. We’re verifying this number with the Fuelies. There was a nuke plant down here that was used back in the day but is no longer due to containment issues.

There is a steady strong wind and six months of sun per year so I’ve spoken with people about wind and solar power. A lot of the field camps and fish huts are solar powered. But on base, the energy is used to drive big vehicles, and you cannot do that with sun or wind.

I’m not sure what our per capita consumption is relative elsewhere on the planet. I get the feeling we use a lot, but then again, we are packed in here pretty tight, whereas back in the U.S. the climate might be more temperate but people have McMansions bigger than our entire dorm or the entire Crary science lab, plus malls that are lit 24/7.

The recycling down here is phenomenal. We recycle 70% of our waste (best U.S. city might be at 15% or 20%), and zero garbage stays here. All our trash, including bodily waste, gets shipped back to the U.S. for disposal. Of course by the time the bodily waste gets back it is nice dirt with plants starting to grow out of it. When you go hiking off base you bring a pee bottle and carry your own waste out of field camps. Each dorm and office floor has recycling bins. About 10 of them. Details here. I’ve scheduled a tour of the wastewater plant (a.k.a poo plant) and I’ll write and post photos after that happens.

Who has the most time logged there?

One person has been here 27 seasons. She has a small island named after her. The longest duration is 14 months as you get kicked off for 60 days after that. Many regulars go to Fiji or back to the states for 2 months, then come back, and repeat.

How soon do people start showing signs of cabin fever?

I’m not sure. It is a strange crowd here, many people have been here before, everybody wants to be here. I’m here early in the season and leaving early too, so I won’t get to experience it nor observe it in others. I think everybody would like it if it were a bit less crowded, and the first week when there were only 5 to 6 hundred people on base it was much nicer.

I bet some people experience cabin fever on day 1, and others never. I think in the summer it is easy to get out and the sun is up, so this might be something experienced a lot more during the winter, and/or at the South Pole where it is a lot smaller and harder to go outside.

As for me, I think I could be locked in a small room for a couple days before it started to get to me. The loneliest I’ve ever been was one evening standing in Times Square, New York City. It is all relative.

I want a photo of a quinzee

I didn’t take my camera to Happy Camper School, but Eva and Joanna took a bunch of pictures. Here they are, of a Scott tent, the wind wall we built of snow blocks (and our kitchen), simulating a search and rescue in a condition one, a sleeping trench, and two pictures of a quinzee. Enjoy.





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The Today Show

October 29th, 2007 | No Comments | By Ken Mankoff

If you want to learn a bit more about what is going on down here in McMurdo in general, with an ANDRILL interview too, watch The Today Show on Monday the 5th. The Today Show has sent their reporters to the Arctic, Equator, and Antarctic (we get Ann Curry) and they will be doing three days of stories on human induced climate change, with a live simul-cast from all three locations Monday morning.

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